Any visitor to Japan will soon see that beer is a vital social
lubricant for everything from formal business dealings to casual
gatherings among co-workers. According to the National Tax
Administration, 9,427,000kl of alcoholic beverages were consumed in
Japan in 1992 and 72.8% of this was beer. Despite the large
consumption of beer, there is little variety and beer prices are
ludicrously high. This situation was surely not what Koumin
Kawamoto envisioned when he brewed Japan's first beer in 1854, but
there are signs that changes are underway which could render the
Japanese beer market unrecognizable within a few years.
One factor driving change is a growing desire among Japanese beer
drinkers for more variety. This has manifested itself in two ways;
the appearance of micro breweries and increasing imports of craft
beers. An example of the former can be seen at the newly opened
Shirayuki Brewery Village micro brewery in a suburb of Osaka which,
since it opened in June, has attracted about 6000 customers per
week. Just over a year ago, there were no micro breweries in
Japan. This is because the Big Four oligopoly of breweries, Kirin,
Asahi, Sapporo, and Suntory have, until recently, controlled nearly
100% of the domestic beer market and, until April 1994, a licensed
brewery had to produce a minimum of 2 million liters of beer
annually. This regulation alone left little room for innovation,
and was enough to keep anyone but a major corporation out of the
brewing business. Although mass produced domestic beer is quite
good, one might easily draw the conclusion that the Big Four
breweries were sharing the same recipe. Whenever I am asked by
Japanese friends how I feel about Japanese beer, my response is
always "oishii kedonaa..." (It's good but...)
Now that the production requirement has been reduced to 60
kiloliters per year, craft brew micro-breweries like Shirayuki are
starting to spring up throughout Japan bringing in their wake a
much welcomed variety of delectable beer.
As in other fields, the Japanese have proven to be adept learners
in making fine beer. The Shirayuki Brewery Village micro brewery
utilizes state-of-the-art Belgian equipment to brew two excellent
Belgian beers using imported malt and hops. Shirayuki offers an
inviting dark beer served in its own unique snifter-like cup,
following a Belgian tradition of serving different beers in their
own special glasses to accentuate flavor. There is also a light
golden lager on tap which is served in its own fluted glass.
Shirayuki also serves a delicious wheat beer in yet another
specially designed vessel. (The wheat beer or "special" beer as it
is called is imported from Belgium.) The taste of the beer, which
differs greatly from the standard Japanese brands, lived up to its
alluring appearance and was good enough to necessitate a return
trip a few days later just to make sure it had not been a dream.
Newly developed establishments like Shirayuki stand at the vanguard
of the "jii-biru" movement which is seen by many as a way to
revitalize local areas by allowing them to produce their own
distinctive beer. The movement had been gathering momentum over
the past few years, but had been suppressed by the minimum brewing
requirement. "Shirayuki had been contemplating a move into micro
brewing for some time, but regulations made it impossible," says
Ms. Hiroko Sakata of Shirayuki Brewery. "It was seen as a way to
attract tourists to a less popular area of Kansai," she added.
In fact, the couple sitting next to me, when asked why they came to
Shirayuki, answered simply, "we love beer, and we were curious."
When I asked if they would come back, they gave a resounding "yes."
For some years, the major breweries have been creating their own
affiliated brew pubs. While these brew pubs have the look and feel
of micro breweries, their beer is startlingly reminiscent of the
mass produced varieties and is not produced on site. One example
is the Kirin City chain of brew pubs which offers Kirin lager,
Kirin Dark and the option of mixing the two for a half and half.
It is a far cry from the unique brews offered by Shirayuki Brewery
Village.
Changes in the Japanese beer market do not stop at the Shirayuki
Brewery, and signs of further diversification to come could be seen
at the first annual micro-brewery equipment exhibition, Brew-Tec
'95, held in Tokyo last January. Representatives of micro-brewery
equipment manufacturers from around the world showcased the latest
hi-tech brewing equipment to a curious few would-be producers.
Although attendance was sparse over the course of the three day
event, it is a clear sign that the effects of recent deregulation
of small batch brewing has yet to be fully felt.
While domestic craft brewers have started to gain market share,
there has been a significant increase in imported craft brews. As
of 1993, there were over 200 different brands of beer from more
than 150 companies being sold in Japan and this number has grown,
and continues to increase every year. A new company, MicroBeers
International, has started to import small quantities of American
craft beers which are directly distributed to subscribing members.
By keeping the quantities small and the delivery time short, the
company effectively safeguards the freshness of the fragile,
preservative-free beer by bypassing local distributors. This is a
marked advantage since local distributors can allow beer to sit
around thus compromising taste and freshness. This is especially
important in Japan where a beer's freshness is seen as the most
significant quality.
The Big Four are making attempts at responding to the demand for
variety. Recently, the Big Four have been trying to make beer
drinking a year-round pastime. Since over 30% of beer shipments
are made during the summer months, there is a belief that there is
room for increased consumption in other seasons. Over the past few
years there has been an explosion in spin-off seasonal brews like
Kirin's "Aki Aji" (Fall taste), and local taste beer like Hokkaido
taste beer, and Kansai taste beers among others. Surprisingly
enough, the Big Four market an average of 15 different brands and
15-20 new brands are introduced each year nationwide. The vast
majority of the new products are lagers. While these have added to
the color of liquor store shelves, they have failed to deliver a
truly unique taste so common to small batch craft brews, and major
brewers still derive anywhere from 50% to 80% of their sales from
flagship brands.
While the increasing sophistication of Japanese beer consumers is
has given rise to micro breweries and more imports of craft brews,
a far more profound change is occurring as consumers become more
price conscious. The economic slump, which is now in its fifth
year, combined with the skyrocketing yen has made consumers eager
to search out cheap alternatives. With the price of flagship
Japanese beer hovering at around $2.30 a can, there still exists a
pent up demand for cheap beer. Low cost imported beer is starting
to fill the gap. One only had to go to Daiei, a major grocery
chain, to see firsthand the near mania that ensued when it offered
imported beer for rock bottom prices. One Japanese friend, an avid
beer drinker, bought a case, and as we were drinking a few one day
after work, kept saying "110 yen and it's good" over and over
again as if he could not believe it.
With the yen appreciating so rapidly, there has been a literal
flood of cheap imported beer. The volume of imported beer, mostly
low cost alternatives, from January to August 1994 was up a
staggering 146%. The total for 1994 imports topped 250,000kl.
Budweiser is leading the way with 43 million liters, a not-so-small
percentage of a market which produces 57.5 hecto-liters of its own
beer. The local giants reacted to this by introducing beer with
a slightly different composition so that the "malted beverage"
would fall into a lower taxed category of alcohol. The most common
method of altering the composition was to increase the amounts of
filler grains like rice. Such products include Suntory's "Hops"
beer which is sold for 50 yen below the price of their flagship
brand and tastes as if corners were cut in the brewing process.
Despite the popularity of Hops and others like it, the Diet has
begun the process which would bring these beverages back into the
same tax bracket as regular beer. To be fair, these cheaper malt
beverages taste better than Budweiser but do not enjoy the chic
image of the American beer.
The high yen has made it economically viable for beer importers to
buy cheap, massed produced foreign beer and still undersell locally
produced beer despite the heavy taxes assessed on both varieties.
This has become known as "price destruction" (kakaku hakai).
Interestingly, beer remains the highest taxed alcoholic beverage in
Japan. Compared to the tax on wine, which is 7%, the tax levied on
beer is a whopping 44%.
To get an idea of the speedy rate of change, consider that
just a few years ago, the Big Four Japanese brewers, Kirin (the 4th
largest brewer in the world), Asahi, Suntory and Sapporo held a
virtual 100% strangle hold on the Japanese beer market. A measly
one percent market share seemed a remote possibility for most
would-be exporters. Busweiser alone has set a goal of 5% market
share by 2001. Overall, imported beer has now gained a 4%
market-share foothold which could increase to 5-7% within 2-3
years as reported by JETRO. (Japanese External Trade Organization)
According to the Nihon Keizai group which monitors hot imports,
imported beer was the biggest hit in the Japanese market for 1994.
Despite the success of beer market deregulation in bringing variety
and low cost alternatives to Japanese consumers, the Big Four are
still a force to be reckoned with. Shirayuki micro brewery and
other importers seem to have tapped a thirsty market, but the
financial clout wheeled by the major breweries could mean trouble
for upstarts companies should they get too popular. Furthermore,
the yen could weaken thereby negating the price advantage of cheap
imports. Whether or not increased variety and cheaper alternatives
are a passing fad remains to be seen, but with so many factors
applying slow and constant pressure to the beer market, Japanese
beer consumers appear to have much to look forward to. Kampaii!
Seldom-visited Yakushima, located 120 kilometers off the coast of
Kagoshima, is a paradise of unequalled natural beauty, where all
the best sights are free, and one can still walk for hours
through ancient forests or sunbathe on picturesque beaches without
seeing another soul.
Yakushima's terrain and climate make for a dramatic setting. A
small round island which literally shoots up from the ocean floor,
Yakushima has the highest peaks in all of southern Japan. The
close clustering of summits manages to trap virtually every rain
cloud that passes overhead. The heavy rain, along with the fertile
volcanic soil, accounts for an amazing variety of plant life
ranging
from the sub-arctic to sub-tropical. In some of the more isolated
valleys, the virgin forests are thousands of years old. There is
also an abundance of wildlife including deer and wild monkeys.
Yakushima is a hiker's dream come true.
On one excursion into these mystical woods, I departed the
Arakawa dam and walked along the remains of an abandoned railway.
The majority of this stretch was flat and offered some fantastic
views of the mountains and the sparkling rivers which gushed from
them. As I neared the magical Wilson's Stump, the path became much
more challenging.
Wilson's stump is the hollowed-out remnant of what was once a
mighty cedar tree. You can go inside of the stump and drink water
from a tiny spring which bubbles up from the ground. The most
incredible thing about the stump is that despite the seemingly
fatal blow
delivered to the ancient cedar, the stump has given birth to two
huge trees which rise symmetrically from either side in an elegant
symbol of the unrelenting life-force these eons-old trees possess.
Further along the trail, towards the 1935 meter summit of the
Miyanoura peak, is Yakushima's most famous sight, the 7,200 year-
old JYOMON SUGI. A gentle giant with a massive trunk that has been
knotted and gnarled by the ravages of time, the massive cedar is an
awe-inspiring spectacle. During the forty-five minutes I spent
gazing at this wonder, I was the only one there.
My return route took me through the SHIRATANIUNSUIKOU where there
were more towering cedars, gurgling brooks, and a thick carpet of
moss covering the undulating roots on the forest floor. The vast
and twisting network of roots was like a petrified nest of
ancient serpents.
Yakushima also has plenty to offer at the lower altitudes. A well
paved road circumnavigating the island makes some prime spots
easily reachable by car or motorbike. One highlight is the 88
meter Okawa falls at the base of which is a pristine pool of azure
water -- a prime spot for taking a refreshing dip.
Further along, the road climbs steeply into the densely forested
Kirishima National Wildlife Protection Area. There are also some
breath-taking views of the jagged coastline and the blue ocean
below. Despite the rockiness of the coastline, there are four sand
beaches including Nagata Beach which boasts a wide arc of gently
descending white sand and an inviting aquamarine sea. Nagata was
nearly deserted the day I went.
While the beaches are delightful, most islanders prefer to swim in
Yakushima's numerous rivers. I got two chances to enjoy the
immaculate waters of the Miyanoura river, once for pleasure and
the second time to fish for AYU (sweetfish) in the traditional way,
armed only with rubber band propelled spears.
Finally, to close out one day, I headed to the HIRAUCHI ONSEN (hot
springs) which
is right on the coast. Admission is free, but the onsen is only
open during low tides. If the tides cooperate, try to take in a
sunset here. It is a great way to relax on what has to be Japan's
loveliest island and its best kept secret.
# END #
TOURIST INFORMATION
From Kagoshima, there are numerous ferries to Yakushima. The ferry
ride takes about 4 hours. For those with less time, there are jet
foils which cut the travel time in half, and there are five hour-
long flights daily from Kagoshima airport.
For lodging, I can highly recommend the SEIKOU U DOKU, which is
located in Miyanoura. At 3,500 yen per night, the small hostel is
run by the friendliest and most helpful owners you can imagine and
offers clean rooms, cooking and washing facilities, and a casual
atmosphere conducive to meeting fellow travelers. (tel. (09974) 2-
2070 and 2- 1810)
Kagoshima, is a paradise of unequalled natural beauty, where all
the best sights are free, and one can still walk for hours
through ancient forests or sunbathe on picturesque beaches without
seeing another soul.
Yakushima's terrain and climate make for a dramatic setting. A
small round island which literally shoots up from the ocean floor,
Yakushima has the highest peaks in all of southern Japan. The
close clustering of summits manages to trap virtually every rain
cloud that passes overhead. The heavy rain, along with the fertile
volcanic soil, accounts for an amazing variety of plant life
ranging
from the sub-arctic to sub-tropical. In some of the more isolated
valleys, the virgin forests are thousands of years old. There is
also an abundance of wildlife including deer and wild monkeys.
Yakushima is a hiker's dream come true.
On one excursion into these mystical woods, I departed the
Arakawa dam and walked along the remains of an abandoned railway.
The majority of this stretch was flat and offered some fantastic
views of the mountains and the sparkling rivers which gushed from
them. As I neared the magical Wilson's Stump, the path became much
more challenging.
Wilson's stump is the hollowed-out remnant of what was once a
mighty cedar tree. You can go inside of the stump and drink water
from a tiny spring which bubbles up from the ground. The most
incredible thing about the stump is that despite the seemingly
fatal blow
delivered to the ancient cedar, the stump has given birth to two
huge trees which rise symmetrically from either side in an elegant
symbol of the unrelenting life-force these eons-old trees possess.
Further along the trail, towards the 1935 meter summit of the
Miyanoura peak, is Yakushima's most famous sight, the 7,200 year-
old JYOMON SUGI. A gentle giant with a massive trunk that has been
knotted and gnarled by the ravages of time, the massive cedar is an
awe-inspiring spectacle. During the forty-five minutes I spent
gazing at this wonder, I was the only one there.
My return route took me through the SHIRATANIUNSUIKOU where there
were more towering cedars, gurgling brooks, and a thick carpet of
moss covering the undulating roots on the forest floor. The vast
and twisting network of roots was like a petrified nest of
ancient serpents.
Yakushima also has plenty to offer at the lower altitudes. A well
paved road circumnavigating the island makes some prime spots
easily reachable by car or motorbike. One highlight is the 88
meter Okawa falls at the base of which is a pristine pool of azure
water -- a prime spot for taking a refreshing dip.
Further along, the road climbs steeply into the densely forested
Kirishima National Wildlife Protection Area. There are also some
breath-taking views of the jagged coastline and the blue ocean
below. Despite the rockiness of the coastline, there are four sand
beaches including Nagata Beach which boasts a wide arc of gently
descending white sand and an inviting aquamarine sea. Nagata was
nearly deserted the day I went.
While the beaches are delightful, most islanders prefer to swim in
Yakushima's numerous rivers. I got two chances to enjoy the
immaculate waters of the Miyanoura river, once for pleasure and
the second time to fish for AYU (sweetfish) in the traditional way,
armed only with rubber band propelled spears.
Finally, to close out one day, I headed to the HIRAUCHI ONSEN (hot
springs) which
is right on the coast. Admission is free, but the onsen is only
open during low tides. If the tides cooperate, try to take in a
sunset here. It is a great way to relax on what has to be Japan's
loveliest island and its best kept secret.
# END #
TOURIST INFORMATION
From Kagoshima, there are numerous ferries to Yakushima. The ferry
ride takes about 4 hours. For those with less time, there are jet
foils which cut the travel time in half, and there are five hour-
long flights daily from Kagoshima airport.
For lodging, I can highly recommend the SEIKOU U DOKU, which is
located in Miyanoura. At 3,500 yen per night, the small hostel is
run by the friendliest and most helpful owners you can imagine and
offers clean rooms, cooking and washing facilities, and a casual
atmosphere conducive to meeting fellow travelers. (tel. (09974) 2-
2070 and 2- 1810)
New Zealand has been called God's own country, and it is easy to
see why. Not only is there awe-inspiring scenery, but the
juxtaposition of oceans, glaciers, rain forests, and mountains is
truly other-worldly. For such a small country, there is an
incredible variety of things to see and do. From tandem skydiving
to bungee jumping, jet boating, tramping, mountain climbing, white
water rafting, spelunking, skiing, bird watching, sea kayaking,
whale watching, swimming with dolphins, wine tasting, golfing, or
just lying on the beach , the choices are overwhelming. This
presents the traveler with the dilemma of having to decide what to
do. Foirdland National Park, Abel-Tasman National Park, and
Waiheke Island are good introductions to New Zealand's limitless
possibilities.
Nowhere do the sea and mountains come together with such dramatic
effect as in Fiordland National Park in the extreme southwest of
the country. In fact, according to Maori legend, Fiordland was
carved out by the demigod Tu-te-Raki Whanoa who was determined to
make the land pleasing to the eyes of a god and awe-inspiring to
men. The main road through the park passes through a pristine
landscape of snow-capped granite mountains, waterfalls, lush rain
forests, and aqua-blue glacial lakes before it ends at the majestic
Milford Sound. The indescribably beautiful sound, which was
sculpted by a massive glacier, has many moods. One minute it has
a Gothic forbidding, with dark clouds clinging to the mountains and
the next a Eden-like innocence with seals and dolphins frolicking
in the calm waters. It is no wonder that it's one of New Zealand's
most popular attractions.
No trip to New Zealand would be complete without tramping. It's a
national pastime, and there are literally hundreds of tracks
throughout the country. Most tracks are well maintained with
excellent campsites and rudimentary huts. The Abel-Tasman National
Park's coastal track, which is at the top of the south island,
offers hikers or sea kayakers the chance to explore a rolling
landscape of bush and fern forests, sunbathe on deserted gold
sanded beaches, and swim in limpid freshwater pools. Day walks are
possible, but the access to the most spectacular areas requires
spending at least three days on the track. When kayaking along the
coast, there is a good chance of being joined by curious dolphins
and seals which inhabit the park's marine reserve. The Abel-Tasman
is New Zealand's most popular track, and many Kiwis avoid it during
the summer because of the crowds. Crowded, to a New Zealander,
means that there might be another person or two along the way.
Finally, a visit to Waiheke Island gives a near perfect
introduction to the north island's beauty. The island is just a
25 minute boat ride from Auckland and boasts rolling hills, more
incredible beaches, several outstanding wineries, and a very
relaxed atmosphere which has attracted a large community of
artists. Deserted Onetangi beach, a picturesque 2 kilometer
stretch of white sand, is no doubt the best place to swim and catch
a few rays. Also be sure to take the bus tour of the island where
everything about the island one could possibly want to know is
explained in minute detail. The highlights of the tour are the
stops at three of Waiheke's excellent wineries. For the
connoisseur, private tours of the wineries can be arranged.
Fiordland, Abel-Tasman, and Waiheke are good starting points, but
equivalent beauty can be found in countless other places. One
certainty remains. Wherever one goes, the Kiwis are the most
hospitable and friendly people imaginable. It's not uncommon for
Kiwis to invite visitors to their houses for a chat and dinner,
take time to help them find their way, and hitchhikers often say
that people sometimes stop just to apologize for not being able to
offer a lift. Of course, every country has its flaws, and New
Zealand's is its cuisine which is grounded firmly in the British
tradition of simple, filling, and tasteless. But with so much to
do, there's little time for eating.
see why. Not only is there awe-inspiring scenery, but the
juxtaposition of oceans, glaciers, rain forests, and mountains is
truly other-worldly. For such a small country, there is an
incredible variety of things to see and do. From tandem skydiving
to bungee jumping, jet boating, tramping, mountain climbing, white
water rafting, spelunking, skiing, bird watching, sea kayaking,
whale watching, swimming with dolphins, wine tasting, golfing, or
just lying on the beach , the choices are overwhelming. This
presents the traveler with the dilemma of having to decide what to
do. Foirdland National Park, Abel-Tasman National Park, and
Waiheke Island are good introductions to New Zealand's limitless
possibilities.
Nowhere do the sea and mountains come together with such dramatic
effect as in Fiordland National Park in the extreme southwest of
the country. In fact, according to Maori legend, Fiordland was
carved out by the demigod Tu-te-Raki Whanoa who was determined to
make the land pleasing to the eyes of a god and awe-inspiring to
men. The main road through the park passes through a pristine
landscape of snow-capped granite mountains, waterfalls, lush rain
forests, and aqua-blue glacial lakes before it ends at the majestic
Milford Sound. The indescribably beautiful sound, which was
sculpted by a massive glacier, has many moods. One minute it has
a Gothic forbidding, with dark clouds clinging to the mountains and
the next a Eden-like innocence with seals and dolphins frolicking
in the calm waters. It is no wonder that it's one of New Zealand's
most popular attractions.
No trip to New Zealand would be complete without tramping. It's a
national pastime, and there are literally hundreds of tracks
throughout the country. Most tracks are well maintained with
excellent campsites and rudimentary huts. The Abel-Tasman National
Park's coastal track, which is at the top of the south island,
offers hikers or sea kayakers the chance to explore a rolling
landscape of bush and fern forests, sunbathe on deserted gold
sanded beaches, and swim in limpid freshwater pools. Day walks are
possible, but the access to the most spectacular areas requires
spending at least three days on the track. When kayaking along the
coast, there is a good chance of being joined by curious dolphins
and seals which inhabit the park's marine reserve. The Abel-Tasman
is New Zealand's most popular track, and many Kiwis avoid it during
the summer because of the crowds. Crowded, to a New Zealander,
means that there might be another person or two along the way.
Finally, a visit to Waiheke Island gives a near perfect
introduction to the north island's beauty. The island is just a
25 minute boat ride from Auckland and boasts rolling hills, more
incredible beaches, several outstanding wineries, and a very
relaxed atmosphere which has attracted a large community of
artists. Deserted Onetangi beach, a picturesque 2 kilometer
stretch of white sand, is no doubt the best place to swim and catch
a few rays. Also be sure to take the bus tour of the island where
everything about the island one could possibly want to know is
explained in minute detail. The highlights of the tour are the
stops at three of Waiheke's excellent wineries. For the
connoisseur, private tours of the wineries can be arranged.
Fiordland, Abel-Tasman, and Waiheke are good starting points, but
equivalent beauty can be found in countless other places. One
certainty remains. Wherever one goes, the Kiwis are the most
hospitable and friendly people imaginable. It's not uncommon for
Kiwis to invite visitors to their houses for a chat and dinner,
take time to help them find their way, and hitchhikers often say
that people sometimes stop just to apologize for not being able to
offer a lift. Of course, every country has its flaws, and New
Zealand's is its cuisine which is grounded firmly in the British
tradition of simple, filling, and tasteless. But with so much to
do, there's little time for eating.
The Daily Yomiuri
Thursday, June 15, 1995
by Matthew Hilburn, Special to The Daily Yomiuri
Prague Cultural Cross-Section of Europe
Czech author Milan Kundera once wrote that the streets of Prague are haunted with the ghosts of forgotten eras. Visitors to Prague today will no doubt find Kundera’s description still holds true.
Since the Velvet Revolution of 1989, an entirely new generation of ghosts has descended on the streets of this stately Bohemian capital. The names of the streets have been changed yet again, and the city has embarked on a completely new course.
While a feeling of hope hangs in the air, it remains as elusive as the shadowy memories of communism.
When I first arrived in the city, once called the Crown of the World, I was unsure of what to expect. After hearing endless stories about the former Soviet Union and economic difficulties there, I half expected to find Prague in a similar state of disarray. Yet, that was not so.
Walking through Prague, the main destination of most tourists, it is easy to forget one is in a poor country. Expensive shops selling the latest fashions line many of the crowded streets. Most of the goods are tantalizingly out of reach for the average Czech. This perhaps explains why window shopping is such a popular pastime. It's in the open markets where Czechs can be found buying fruit, toiletries, and even Johnny Walker whisky.
No matter what one's interests are, Prague has something for everyone. Prague is a cultural cross-section of Europe's most important architectural periods, ranging from simple Romanesque basilicas such as St. George's to awe-inspiring Gothic structures Charles Bridge or St. Vitus Cathedral; and from spirited Renaissance gardens like the Royal Palace Gardens to elaborate Baroque churches such as St. Nicholas. In fact, during Prague's Golden Age, in the mid-14th century, the city was said to rival both Paris and London as Europe's finest city.
Sightseeing in Prague is delightful because most attractions are within easy walking distance from each other. But with its maze of tiny twisting streets, a good map and comfortable shoes are a must for those who opt to sightsee on foot. The most famous places can be seen in a few days; however, this charming capital deserves careful exploration.
Prague offers an irresistible chance to walk back through time. But what makes it unique are the relatively low prices compared with other Western European cities. Prague's tourist industry has been quick to transform itself and can accommodate tourists on any budget, although cheap accommodations are hard to come by during peak seasons.
Furthermore, the vast number of classical concerts, modern theater performances and art galleries will surely satisfy those interested in the arts. The English language Prague Post is a good source for current tourist and entertainment information and is available at newsstands throughout the city.
With millions of visitors crowding into Prague each year, one might consider an urban getaway. One idea is to take the funicular railway from U Lanove Drahy up to the top of the mountain were Prague Castle sits. The railway stops just below the "Eiffel Tower" of Prague which, for a small admission fee, offers a panoramic view of the city. After seeing the tower, a leisurely stroll toward the castle through Petrin Park provides a respite from the crowds and another wonderful view of the city's red-tiled rooftops and the castle itself.
After a day of sightseeing, one can unwind while savoring the taste of Czech beer. There is a old Czech saying about being able to tell the color of a man's soul by the color of the beer he drinks. This may or may not be true, but it would be impossible to get a feel for Prague's soul without a thorough sampling of some of the fine beer available throughout the city. Home of pilsner, the champagne of beer, the Czech Republic has a brewing tradition as rich as Germany's. Furthermore, the beer is very cheap, typically running just over 50 yen for half a liter. Prague could easily be called a beer drinker's paradise. Even if you are not a beer drinker, your time in Prague will no doubt be heavenly.
Travel Information
• For tourist information, contact Czech Airline’s Tokyo office in Kita-Aoyama, Minato Ward, Tel. (03) 3409-7414.
• The Prague Information Service (PIS) on Na Prikope, 20 (tel. 54-44-44) provides a wide range of tourist services, including assistance locating accommodations, arranging entertainment schedules, and transportation in and around Prague. It’s best to book accommodations within the city since transport from the suburbs can be inconvenient.
Thursday, June 15, 1995
by Matthew Hilburn, Special to The Daily Yomiuri
Prague Cultural Cross-Section of Europe
Czech author Milan Kundera once wrote that the streets of Prague are haunted with the ghosts of forgotten eras. Visitors to Prague today will no doubt find Kundera’s description still holds true.
Since the Velvet Revolution of 1989, an entirely new generation of ghosts has descended on the streets of this stately Bohemian capital. The names of the streets have been changed yet again, and the city has embarked on a completely new course.
While a feeling of hope hangs in the air, it remains as elusive as the shadowy memories of communism.
When I first arrived in the city, once called the Crown of the World, I was unsure of what to expect. After hearing endless stories about the former Soviet Union and economic difficulties there, I half expected to find Prague in a similar state of disarray. Yet, that was not so.
Walking through Prague, the main destination of most tourists, it is easy to forget one is in a poor country. Expensive shops selling the latest fashions line many of the crowded streets. Most of the goods are tantalizingly out of reach for the average Czech. This perhaps explains why window shopping is such a popular pastime. It's in the open markets where Czechs can be found buying fruit, toiletries, and even Johnny Walker whisky.
No matter what one's interests are, Prague has something for everyone. Prague is a cultural cross-section of Europe's most important architectural periods, ranging from simple Romanesque basilicas such as St. George's to awe-inspiring Gothic structures Charles Bridge or St. Vitus Cathedral; and from spirited Renaissance gardens like the Royal Palace Gardens to elaborate Baroque churches such as St. Nicholas. In fact, during Prague's Golden Age, in the mid-14th century, the city was said to rival both Paris and London as Europe's finest city.
Sightseeing in Prague is delightful because most attractions are within easy walking distance from each other. But with its maze of tiny twisting streets, a good map and comfortable shoes are a must for those who opt to sightsee on foot. The most famous places can be seen in a few days; however, this charming capital deserves careful exploration.
Prague offers an irresistible chance to walk back through time. But what makes it unique are the relatively low prices compared with other Western European cities. Prague's tourist industry has been quick to transform itself and can accommodate tourists on any budget, although cheap accommodations are hard to come by during peak seasons.
Furthermore, the vast number of classical concerts, modern theater performances and art galleries will surely satisfy those interested in the arts. The English language Prague Post is a good source for current tourist and entertainment information and is available at newsstands throughout the city.
With millions of visitors crowding into Prague each year, one might consider an urban getaway. One idea is to take the funicular railway from U Lanove Drahy up to the top of the mountain were Prague Castle sits. The railway stops just below the "Eiffel Tower" of Prague which, for a small admission fee, offers a panoramic view of the city. After seeing the tower, a leisurely stroll toward the castle through Petrin Park provides a respite from the crowds and another wonderful view of the city's red-tiled rooftops and the castle itself.
After a day of sightseeing, one can unwind while savoring the taste of Czech beer. There is a old Czech saying about being able to tell the color of a man's soul by the color of the beer he drinks. This may or may not be true, but it would be impossible to get a feel for Prague's soul without a thorough sampling of some of the fine beer available throughout the city. Home of pilsner, the champagne of beer, the Czech Republic has a brewing tradition as rich as Germany's. Furthermore, the beer is very cheap, typically running just over 50 yen for half a liter. Prague could easily be called a beer drinker's paradise. Even if you are not a beer drinker, your time in Prague will no doubt be heavenly.
Travel Information
• For tourist information, contact Czech Airline’s Tokyo office in Kita-Aoyama, Minato Ward, Tel. (03) 3409-7414.
• The Prague Information Service (PIS) on Na Prikope, 20 (tel. 54-44-44) provides a wide range of tourist services, including assistance locating accommodations, arranging entertainment schedules, and transportation in and around Prague. It’s best to book accommodations within the city since transport from the suburbs can be inconvenient.
The northern Indian city of Varanasi is one of the oldest living cities in the world. Its importance as a Hindu holy city makes it the prime destination for thousands of pilgrims . Most Hindus come to bathe in the sacred waters of the Ganges , but many elderly and sick, seeking to earn instant enlightenment by dying there, come to spend their last days and be cremated along the river banks. Varanasi is the city of Shiva, the god of destruction and renewal, and everyday the drama of life and death plays out on the city's stage.
Varanasi is one of India's most exotic cities, but it was especially so when my recent visit coincided with a lunar eclipse. The city was electrified by a wave of mystical Sadhu wise men and sari-clad women who crowd the ghat, long flights of stone steps which line the Ganges for several kilometers. Adding to the festive atmosphere was the primal sound of Indian classical music mixing with the never ending plumes of smoke rising from the funeral pyres.
My day started at the ghats, where the morning ablutions take place at dawn. The dusty air in Varanasi disperses the sunlight into a soft and warm gold. Dawn is especially intense because the sun rises directly across the river from the city and can make the river's surface appear gilded. The subdued hues of sunlight, the quiet ritual bathing , and Varanasi's unique skyline of Jain temples, Mosques, and eerie ghat temples looming over the ghats combine to make the city seem other worldly.
As the sun began to heat up the unshaded river bank, I made my way to the maze of twisting narrow streets of Godaulia, the old part of the city. A car would not dare enter these tiny streets, where one supine cow can cause gridlock. Shops line most of the streets and sell anything from household goods to Hindu religious icons, but as one approaches the burning ghats, the shops mostly sell wood, shrouds, and aromatic sandal wood sawdust to sprinkle on the cremation pyres. There is a plentiful supply of barbers on hand to shave the heads of the deceased's relations.
Cremations are held at the main burning ghat 24 hours a day. They are far from morose, and anyone can witness up close the complex pre-cremation rituals, the actual cremation, and the subsequent spreading of the ashes in the Ganges. The family of the deceased must provide the wood for the fires, but some of the poorer families are unable to purchase enough wood to fully cremate the body of their departed loved one. When these ashes are scattered, scavenging dogs search out the remains. The non-stop cremations underscore the inevitability of death but also the necessity of death as the vital element of renewal.
After getting burnt out on cremations, I headed south along the river, and as I reached the southern extremities of the ghat area, there was a curious mix of activity. At some of the holier ghats, groups of pilgrims were staking out territory to pitch camp for the night, but at the less important ghats, lively games of cricket and soccer were underway. At the Dhobi (Laundrymen's) Ghat there was a crowd of people standing knee-deep in the river rhythmically pounding their laundry on some rocks specifically designed for that purpose. Despite the proximity of death, life, with all its pleasures and drudgery, continued.
Nighttime along the ghats is much more SHANTI SHANTI or mellow. On the night of the eclipse, most of the pilgrims were asleep or at the outdoor music concert which was held on Dashashwamedha Ghat, the holiest of all ghats. Varanasi is also a musical city, and there are concerts on any given night. On my walk back to my hotel to catch a nap before the eclipse, I was taken into a group of Shiva sadhus who, after a few ceremonial pulls on their chillum pipes , broke into haunting song themselves.
The slow workings of the cosmos as it unfolds in Varanasi can be rather anti-climactic to those of us from the fast paced world of instant gratification, but over the course of the eclipse, a silence that most of us might have found awe inspiring engulfed the entire ghat area as everyone's focus turned skyward. By the end of the eclipse dawn was about to break, and as the sun slowly peered over the horizon, thousands of bathers quietly made their way to the slowly winding river, and smoke from the burning ghats rose gently into the still air. It was a morning just like the day before and like tens of thousands of days before that. 1
Varanasi is one of India's most exotic cities, but it was especially so when my recent visit coincided with a lunar eclipse. The city was electrified by a wave of mystical Sadhu wise men and sari-clad women who crowd the ghat, long flights of stone steps which line the Ganges for several kilometers. Adding to the festive atmosphere was the primal sound of Indian classical music mixing with the never ending plumes of smoke rising from the funeral pyres.
My day started at the ghats, where the morning ablutions take place at dawn. The dusty air in Varanasi disperses the sunlight into a soft and warm gold. Dawn is especially intense because the sun rises directly across the river from the city and can make the river's surface appear gilded. The subdued hues of sunlight, the quiet ritual bathing , and Varanasi's unique skyline of Jain temples, Mosques, and eerie ghat temples looming over the ghats combine to make the city seem other worldly.
As the sun began to heat up the unshaded river bank, I made my way to the maze of twisting narrow streets of Godaulia, the old part of the city. A car would not dare enter these tiny streets, where one supine cow can cause gridlock. Shops line most of the streets and sell anything from household goods to Hindu religious icons, but as one approaches the burning ghats, the shops mostly sell wood, shrouds, and aromatic sandal wood sawdust to sprinkle on the cremation pyres. There is a plentiful supply of barbers on hand to shave the heads of the deceased's relations.
Cremations are held at the main burning ghat 24 hours a day. They are far from morose, and anyone can witness up close the complex pre-cremation rituals, the actual cremation, and the subsequent spreading of the ashes in the Ganges. The family of the deceased must provide the wood for the fires, but some of the poorer families are unable to purchase enough wood to fully cremate the body of their departed loved one. When these ashes are scattered, scavenging dogs search out the remains. The non-stop cremations underscore the inevitability of death but also the necessity of death as the vital element of renewal.
After getting burnt out on cremations, I headed south along the river, and as I reached the southern extremities of the ghat area, there was a curious mix of activity. At some of the holier ghats, groups of pilgrims were staking out territory to pitch camp for the night, but at the less important ghats, lively games of cricket and soccer were underway. At the Dhobi (Laundrymen's) Ghat there was a crowd of people standing knee-deep in the river rhythmically pounding their laundry on some rocks specifically designed for that purpose. Despite the proximity of death, life, with all its pleasures and drudgery, continued.
Nighttime along the ghats is much more SHANTI SHANTI or mellow. On the night of the eclipse, most of the pilgrims were asleep or at the outdoor music concert which was held on Dashashwamedha Ghat, the holiest of all ghats. Varanasi is also a musical city, and there are concerts on any given night. On my walk back to my hotel to catch a nap before the eclipse, I was taken into a group of Shiva sadhus who, after a few ceremonial pulls on their chillum pipes , broke into haunting song themselves.
The slow workings of the cosmos as it unfolds in Varanasi can be rather anti-climactic to those of us from the fast paced world of instant gratification, but over the course of the eclipse, a silence that most of us might have found awe inspiring engulfed the entire ghat area as everyone's focus turned skyward. By the end of the eclipse dawn was about to break, and as the sun slowly peered over the horizon, thousands of bathers quietly made their way to the slowly winding river, and smoke from the burning ghats rose gently into the still air. It was a morning just like the day before and like tens of thousands of days before that. 1